Perhaps we didn't know what to expect. Perhaps our expectations were low. Perhaps the guidebooks scared us into assuming Lima was similar to our experience in Quito, Ecuador (you know...crime, pollution, urban chaos).
Regardless, we are pleasantly surprised about this wonderful "Garden City" of Lima. We've been having difficulty trying to come up with a comparable city that captures the essence of Lima. After much discussion over a 'few' Cristal cervezas, we think we figured it out (yea, right!). Of course, we are talking primarily of the nice Miraflores, San Isidro, and Barranco neighborhoods. The miles and miles of paved walkway and parks along the coastline remind us of Southern California with all the joggers, cyclists, and roller bladers. Everybody here, young and old, are out exercising. The shores are covered with surfers as well, but Lima doesn't give off a surfer vibe at all. The ocean seems to only be a backdrop to this massive, cosmopolitan city. However, the city is nothing like the SoCal city of Los Angeles. It is more reminiscent of a large capital city like Washington DC. In combination of the ocean and city, we thought Barcelona, Spain was the best comparison. We can feel the high-end influence of diplomats, international business people, and expats amongst the upper class Peruvians residing in the high-rise condos overlooking the ocean. Yet, even the nicest areas possess that South American edginess with graffiti on walls, massive security gates/walls, armed guards, etc. that makes any traveler a little worried about wandering off at night. We don't dare to imagine the conditions in the really rough side of town, closer to the city center and up into the shantytowns on the hillside.
[Below: coastline of Miraflores. See our YouTube video of Miraflores Coastline.]
"Peru's sprawling megacapital is actually a mosaic of many smaller cities. Comprising 43 districts with nearly 9 million inhabitants, Lima is a study in contrasts, with ultramodern seaside neighborhoods butting up against gritty shantytowns that cling to barren hillsides. It is one of the world's few megacapitals that can claim a golf course in the middle of the financial district, and where executives can go surfing before high-powered breakfast meetings. Although it's built in a desert — Cairo is the only other metropolis drier than Lima — it's known as the "Garden City" and is home to one of world's largest fountain parks."
We've only been here for a couple of days, but here's a few of our favorite parts about Lima.
[Below: our hostel, Hostal Porta, at $45/night for a double, is tucked away in a residential street in the exclusive Miraflores District where hotels go for $300-500/night. This hostel is 2 blocks from the ocean front, 4 blocks from the upscale seaside entertainment complex - Larcomar, about 6 blocks from nice restaurants in Miraflores, 7-minute walk to Parque Kennedy and its surrounding bars and restaurants catering to backpackers/tourists, and plenty of small tiendas, lavanderias, banks, etc. to get errands done.]
So, we've been "a little" busy exploring Lima! You can probably see why the name "Garden City" is appropriate for this megacity.
See the entire Peru Photo Album.
