A major advantage of extended travel is that we have nothing but time, so we are able to seek out the hard-to-reach places around the globe. Los Organos is such a place.
It seems that no one outside of Peru makes this trek to these beaches. After all, it takes another 16 hours by vehicle from Lima or a 2-hour flight and 4-hour bus ride from Lima. Obviously, there are easier beaches to get to.
The nearest tourist attraction is about 15 km north in Máncora - a backpacker and surfer destination. As a result, there are quite a few cheap hostels, bars, and nightclubs that cater to this crowd.
We chose a little more isolation and tranquility over the party atmosphere in Máncora, and found a nice beach bungalow at Muelle Viejo in Los Organos. This place was hardly advertised anywhere in English, but we think we found them through Booking.com. We have felt like we are house guests of Coco, the surfer-owner, along with his surfer girlfriend, Julia. Luis is the hardworking help who keeps the property maintained, gets our breakfast ready, and cleans our room. Their 3 dogs, Blanca, Chocolatín, and Rita are sweet and make us miss our dog dearly. There's only 5 bungalows, all facing the ocean, and an outdoor common area with couches and hammocks that are covered by a thatched roof, trees and foliage. The constant breeze makes this place the most comfortable hang-out ever...except for the threat of mosquitos, but that's what bug spray is for. [View the YouTube video of Muelle Viejo common area.]
In this fishing village of Los Organos, we are rewarded with the surf and sand of the Pacific Ocean; perfect temperatures; view of the fishermen at work; pelicans flying by; lots of fresh seafood (ceviche!); the small town of Los Organos; friendly playful dogs; swinging hammocks; sipping Pisco Sours and beers; a beautiful sunset; and total relaxation in this oasis.
Since this is the winter off-season, things are even more quiet than usual. We practically have the beach to ourselves. There has only been one other guest staying at Muelle Viejo. A Canadian from Quebec who we've enjoyed getting to know over the last few days. She left today to meet up with the rest of her group from Quebec to do volunteer work in Ayacucho. We hope to visit her in Quebec, one of these days! Here Is her and Mike toasting to Pisco Sours.
Surprisingly, the days fly by. After breakfast, we've been taking a long walk with Rita (the dog) along the beach; then we usually go into town to the market or run errands; then we sunbathe and take a swim in the ocean; then...just relax. Read books, drink beer, whatever. It hasn't been difficult, even for Ms. Type A Personality (aka. Akiko)!
[Below: dirt road by our bungalow. These are bars and restaurants that serve fresh seafood from the boats across the street.]
[Below: mototaxis - main form of public transportation.]
We've already seen our share of poverty in the many towns we've come across, and Los Organos is no different. However, as far as we can see, the people are hard workers; the small town is bustling, clean, and safe (don't be put off by the dirt roads and rundown buildings); and they look happy. Everyone knows everyone and it feels like a big family here. We are happy to contribute to their economy and try to leave a generous impression so that we are welcome back next time.
[Below: Mercado in Los Organos town.]
[Below: Sunset...and dog.]
[Below: beaches of northern Peru. From www.vivamancora.com]
View the entire Peru Photo Album.
