Go Take A Hike...With Us in Sapa!

I'm not ashamed to admit that I had to get some (okay...A LOT of) hands-on assistance from a 12-year old (who probably weighed 70 lbs. soaking wet) and a lady in plastic sandals with a baby strapped to her back, in order to prevent myself from sliding down the cliff during our muddy and slippery trek through the rice terraces of Sapa and the Lao Chai and Ta Van Hmong villages.  Welcome to "real trekking" in Sapa, Vietnam.

Fog dissipating, revealing the beautiful rice terraces and river valley below. We were about to start trekking down into the valley.

It's pure dumb luck that on the second day, the sun came out and the fog decided to dissipate.  Especially since we talked to several people who were leaving without having had a single fog-free day in Sapa.  We took full advantage by going on a day hike. 

We woke up to this promising view on our second day in Sapa!  Beautiful blue skies above the cloud line. 

There's many trekking options.  A few popular ones take hikers and cyclists to Heaven's Gate or Ham Rong Mountain, or the real adventurous may attempt to climb the summit of Fansipan.  On a clear day, we hear the view from atop the mountains and the highest mountain pass (Heaven's Gate) is well...heavenly, but we wouldn't have been able to see much of the valley.  We decided on a guided hike that took us below the cloud lines into the villages instead of going higher.  

Many also opt for a 2 or 3 day hike where they do home stays in the Hmong villages.  These can all be arranged through any one of the hundreds of tour operators in Vietnam.  Don't know which operator to go with?  We got the hotel to help us, but we also heard that travelers can also visit Eddiez Foodlounge & Icecafe in Sapa.  The Dutch guy who owns this bar has lived in Sapa for a while and has the low-down on the more reputable companies and off the beaten path treks.  Supposedly, he can help give recommendations over some beers and food.  

Our hotel recommended Vietnam Nomadtrails on Fansipan Street for a one-day trek down the mountain, through the rice terraces, Lao Chai village, Ta Van village, then a minivan pick-up to take us back up the mountain to Sapa*.  [Cost: $12/pp, which includes admission fee and lunch.]

Our route.  From Sapa down the mountain to Lao Chai then Ta Van.

Here's a few tips we gleaned from hiking around Sapa, after the fact:

1. Invest in some trekking poles.  Plenty of them around in the "Northface" stores.  If you don't want to carry them home, donate them to the hotel upon departure.
2. Trade your fancy hiking shoes for rubber boots.  Locals wear them to walk to/from the villages.  It's that or plastic slippers.  Rubber boots are sold at the local market for super cheap.  Some hotels will loan boots as well, if they have your size.
3. Commit to slipping and getting your high-performance Northface trekking gear muddy from the start.  The sooner the better.  It will free you from the worries of trying to avoid a fall later on.  It's inevitable.  
4. Bum knee?  Bad leg?  Weak ankles?  Most of the Sapa trekking is not the activity for you.  Although we suppose nothing is impossible.  
5. Erase false assumptions that "all downhill" is easy.  Have you tried slipping and sliding down steep muddy pig trails for 2 hours?  We were downright envious of anyone actually climbing up the same trail, because they seemed a little more in control of their footing. 
6. Let the Hmong ladies help prevent you from sliding off the trail.  They know the best footing, will give you a steady hand, and pull you up when needed.  Tip them adequately or buy something from them at the end.

There are easier treks from Sapa.  In fact, just sticking to the main paved road from Sapa to Ta Van village is a nice view (as long as it's sunny) without a single opportunity to get muddy or slip and fall down a cliff.  This can actually been done without a guide.  You wouldn't get close to any of the rice terraces or village life, but you still get a view.

The ~5 hour hike was exhilarating, even during the 2 hours of complete mental focus and physical exertion while trying to navigate the muddy, slippery, and steep trails.  Besides admiring the stunning landscape, we got to talk to the Hmong ladies and learned about their lives - who, by the way, having learned from tourists, speak several languages.  [Below: these girls helped me avoid slipping off the trails.] 

We asked one of these young Hmong ladies about Sapa.  "Do you know why so many tourists come to Sapa?" She really had no idea.  "I don't know.  Maybe it's beautiful? But we have no tall buildings." Are you kidding me?  Who cares about skyscrapers when you've got Sapa in your backyard!!  "Do you think Sapa is beautiful?", we asked.  "Maybe, yes.  I don't know.  I've lived here all my life".  Fair enough.  We proceeded to explain how uniquely beautiful this place was.  She seemed to acknowledge that, but we were quickly reminded that for someone who actually works in the rice terraces with her family, they may have a different perspective.  

Take a hike with us through this photo journal of our one-day trekking itinerary* in Sapa:

0930: Depart from Vietnam Nomadtrails office.  Walk along paved road from Sapa towards Ta Van village.  Many Hmong ladies begin following the trekking group.  Their presence was an omen to the difficulties of the trail ahead, but we didn't know it that at the time!  [Below: "Tam", our trekking guide; one of the Hmong ladies with a baby helping hikers navigate the trails; promising to see fog begin to burn off as we started our trek.]

0945: Pass the main gate, pay admission, and continue.

0945 - 1145: Off road hiking on pig trails through rice terraces.  This was the hardest part where the trails were steep, narrow, slippery, and very muddy.  We hardly took any pictures of the actual trail because our hands were muddy and we were too focused on our footing.  When we stopped to rest, the scenery around us was stunning.  [Below: headed down the steep mountainside - note the red clay everywhere; besides rice, the hill tribes grow indigo to dye their hemp clothing; view of rice terraces; my 12-year old angel helper (why is she not in school right now?  Good question...)] 

1145 - 1230: Continue hike on gravel trails down to Lao Chai village.

1230 - 1300: Stop for lunch in Lao Chai village.

1300 - 1430: Hike through the valley, surrounded by rice terraces and imposing mountains on both sides.  Path is gravel village roads, very easy walk.  There are also quite a few craft stores selling handmade Hmong goods, as well as plenty of Hmong women following the group, trying to sell you something.  [Below: rice was already harvested so the terraces were not lush green, but the shapes were very beautiful amidst the mountain background; water buffaloes everywhere - so stereotypical!; Akiko feeling good that she made it down into the valley; a vat of indigo dye; loom to make cloth out of hemp; the red tinge in the rice paddies are from small red water plants which the pigs graze on.] 

1430: End at Ta Van village where van is waiting to drive us back up the mountain to Sapa. [Below: Lest we temporarily forgot where we were...bright red with yellow star Vietnamese flag waving in the wind in Ta Van village; pork everywhere; note the "home" built from blue tarp.  Made us feel sorry for a moment until we saw a nice satellite dish attached.  Priorities...]

1500: Arrive in Sapa.  [Below: when we returned to Sapa, the sun was shining everywhere!  We could almost see the peak of Fansipan - tallest mountain in Vietnam - through the clouds, but not quite; the sight of Sapa town in the distance was stunning in the afternoon light.]

For as much city and street walking we do, our bodies were wrecked from this day!  Dinner tasted really good and we were fast asleep as soon as our heads hit the pillow.