23-DAYS IN THE BALKANS
The least researched part of our itinerary was the Balkans region. We planned on just "winging it", once we got there. Therefore, we had no idea what the cost would be to travel through this region. With a strong Western European influence, we anticipated higher prices; but also hoped for lower costs since these are still emerging countries with less developed tourism.
The reality? Reasonable lodging costs, cheap food, bargain wines, and even cheaper beers. So, we were shocked to discover that we were actually OVER-budget in the Balkans!! How could that be? We were so proud of having so many days where we spent less than $150, but apparently the few budget-busting days in Croatia put us over. Regardless, at an average of $160/day, we fully experienced the Balkans without feeling like we skimped on anything, so it was worthwhile.
We spent 7 days in Croatia; 4 days in Bosnia and Hercegovina; 3 days in Serbia; 7 days in Macedonia; and 2 days in Bulgaria. If we were on a stricter budget, we would've limited our time in Croatia to just a couple of days since it was the most expensive place in the Balkans. Instead, Macedonia was a cheap place to hang out, where we stayed in nice accommodations, ate good meals, and indulged in bottles of wine for hardly anything. Even the most touristed Lake Ohrid was a steal.
Overall, the Balkans can be done on a budget even less than ours, and is a great budget destination for an authentic experience in a less traveled region.
CURRENCY
Croatia: USD$1 ~ 5 Kuna
Bosnia and Hercegovina: USD$1 ~ 1.50 Marks
Serbia: USD$1 ~ 90 Dinar
Macedonia: USD$1 ~ 50 Denar
Bulgaria: USD$1 ~ 1.50 Leva
We had a moment of flashback when we discovered that Serbia and Macedonia would not exchange each other's currencies. Unlike in Argentina where we learned our lesson, we made sure we didn't leave each country with a lot of currency, but had to carry some Serbian Dinar around with us until we could find someone who would exchange it. Bulgaria to the rescue! They took not only our Serbian money, but also exchanged our Argentina Pesos we've been carrying around for 6 weeks. It felt like a Christmas bonus.
TOTAL
We spent $3700 total or $160/day over the 23 days in the Balkans. That is $10/day over our target, but not outrageous.
LODGING
$1300 total or $57/day. Aside from the $90/night guesthouse in Rovinj, Croatia (height of August holiday season), we're excited that there are plenty of cheap lodging in the Balkans...if you know where to look. Sobes are basically guesthouses owned and operated by a family. It's as quaint as sleeping in a family's bedroom, but more professional and private. Sobes are quite inexpensive but unfortunately, not too many are listed in English speaking websites. We stayed at Sobes that were listed in www.booking.com or www.hostels.com, and were very pleased with what we got. Some are listed as "apartmans", and these were very comfortable as well. We cooked a few meals in the kitchen provided. The only downside is that there is no 24-hour reception desk, and sometimes no phone or phone number for assistance. You are on your own. If this is not your cup of tea, avoid the "apartmans".
TRANSPORTATION
Total $768 or $33/day. It seems it's always the transportation cost that either makes or breaks our budget. It's a huge part of our expenditure for sure, especially since we had to cross the entire Peninsula in 3 weeks. We are no longer in South America where transportation costs approximately a dollar for an hour's worth of travel!
We've already mentioned some of the Quirks and Difficulties of Traveling Through the Balkans, so you would understand that we used a hodge-podge of transport vessels. It felt like the movie, "Planes, Trains, and Automobiles". Just remember that traveling through these areas takes nothing but time. There are no major highways. A huge tour bus on a 2-lane country roads shared with sheep and tractors is the norm. Train travel is no faster...usually slower but very picturesque and old-school.
The Venice (Italy) to Rovinj (Croatia) ferry ride was, by far, the most expensive at $90/pp. The car rental to go to Plitvice National Park in Croatia also cost a total of $142 for 2-days (car rental, gas, parking), but well worth the visit and overcoming the major lack of public transportation to this part of the country. We rode long-distance buses at least 5 times and 10+ hour train rides at least twice.
MEALS
$1040 total or $45/day. It's mysterious but this figure is consistent, no matter where we are, whether it be Peru, Argentina, or Spain. Apparently, we adjust our eating habits based on the cost of food, so that it remains somewhat constant. Who knows. For example, Spain having more expensive food, we stuck mainly to tapas. In Macedonia, we were enjoying 3 course meals with bottles of wine for the same cost.
DRINKS (bottled water, beer, wine, soda, etc.)
The least researched part of our itinerary was the Balkans region. We planned on just "winging it", once we got there. Therefore, we had no idea what the cost would be to travel through this region. With a strong Western European influence, we anticipated higher prices; but also hoped for lower costs since these are still emerging countries with less developed tourism.
The reality? Reasonable lodging costs, cheap food, bargain wines, and even cheaper beers. So, we were shocked to discover that we were actually OVER-budget in the Balkans!! How could that be? We were so proud of having so many days where we spent less than $150, but apparently the few budget-busting days in Croatia put us over. Regardless, at an average of $160/day, we fully experienced the Balkans without feeling like we skimped on anything, so it was worthwhile.
We spent 7 days in Croatia; 4 days in Bosnia and Hercegovina; 3 days in Serbia; 7 days in Macedonia; and 2 days in Bulgaria. If we were on a stricter budget, we would've limited our time in Croatia to just a couple of days since it was the most expensive place in the Balkans. Instead, Macedonia was a cheap place to hang out, where we stayed in nice accommodations, ate good meals, and indulged in bottles of wine for hardly anything. Even the most touristed Lake Ohrid was a steal.
Overall, the Balkans can be done on a budget even less than ours, and is a great budget destination for an authentic experience in a less traveled region.
CURRENCY
Croatia: USD$1 ~ 5 Kuna
Bosnia and Hercegovina: USD$1 ~ 1.50 Marks
Serbia: USD$1 ~ 90 Dinar
Macedonia: USD$1 ~ 50 Denar
Bulgaria: USD$1 ~ 1.50 Leva
We had a moment of flashback when we discovered that Serbia and Macedonia would not exchange each other's currencies. Unlike in Argentina where we learned our lesson, we made sure we didn't leave each country with a lot of currency, but had to carry some Serbian Dinar around with us until we could find someone who would exchange it. Bulgaria to the rescue! They took not only our Serbian money, but also exchanged our Argentina Pesos we've been carrying around for 6 weeks. It felt like a Christmas bonus.
TOTAL
We spent $3700 total or $160/day over the 23 days in the Balkans. That is $10/day over our target, but not outrageous.
LODGING
$1300 total or $57/day. Aside from the $90/night guesthouse in Rovinj, Croatia (height of August holiday season), we're excited that there are plenty of cheap lodging in the Balkans...if you know where to look. Sobes are basically guesthouses owned and operated by a family. It's as quaint as sleeping in a family's bedroom, but more professional and private. Sobes are quite inexpensive but unfortunately, not too many are listed in English speaking websites. We stayed at Sobes that were listed in www.booking.com or www.hostels.com, and were very pleased with what we got. Some are listed as "apartmans", and these were very comfortable as well. We cooked a few meals in the kitchen provided. The only downside is that there is no 24-hour reception desk, and sometimes no phone or phone number for assistance. You are on your own. If this is not your cup of tea, avoid the "apartmans".
TRANSPORTATION
Total $768 or $33/day. It seems it's always the transportation cost that either makes or breaks our budget. It's a huge part of our expenditure for sure, especially since we had to cross the entire Peninsula in 3 weeks. We are no longer in South America where transportation costs approximately a dollar for an hour's worth of travel!
We've already mentioned some of the Quirks and Difficulties of Traveling Through the Balkans, so you would understand that we used a hodge-podge of transport vessels. It felt like the movie, "Planes, Trains, and Automobiles". Just remember that traveling through these areas takes nothing but time. There are no major highways. A huge tour bus on a 2-lane country roads shared with sheep and tractors is the norm. Train travel is no faster...usually slower but very picturesque and old-school.
The Venice (Italy) to Rovinj (Croatia) ferry ride was, by far, the most expensive at $90/pp. The car rental to go to Plitvice National Park in Croatia also cost a total of $142 for 2-days (car rental, gas, parking), but well worth the visit and overcoming the major lack of public transportation to this part of the country. We rode long-distance buses at least 5 times and 10+ hour train rides at least twice.
MEALS
$1040 total or $45/day. It's mysterious but this figure is consistent, no matter where we are, whether it be Peru, Argentina, or Spain. Apparently, we adjust our eating habits based on the cost of food, so that it remains somewhat constant. Who knows. For example, Spain having more expensive food, we stuck mainly to tapas. In Macedonia, we were enjoying 3 course meals with bottles of wine for the same cost.
DRINKS (bottled water, beer, wine, soda, etc.)
$323 total or $14/day. The cost of drinks is reasonable in the Balkans. Beers cost about $2 and a bottle of wine for about $6.
ATTRACTIONS/ADMISSIONS$133 total or $6/day. The 2 main admissions cost was Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia and the War Tunnel Museum in Sarajevo, Bosnia and Hercegovina.
CLOTHING/LAUNDRY
Big fat zero! We spent nothing on laundry because many of the guesthouses and "apartmans" had a washer. When there wasn't a washer, we had no choice but to hand wash in the sink because we rarely saw any laundromats in the Balkans.
MEDICAL EXPENSES
Fortunately, no major expenses here, except for $27 in over-the-counter meds to ease some nasty bug bites Akiko got on her foot that swelled up and got infected.
SOUVENIRS
$63 total for postcards and stamps! Postage was very reasonable, less than $1/postcard to send overseas.
PERSONAL CARE ITEMS
$22 total for haircut, shave, and the pesky public restroom cost...25 cents here, 50 cents there, etc.
WIFI/COMPUTER/ATM FEES
ATTRACTIONS/ADMISSIONS$133 total or $6/day. The 2 main admissions cost was Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia and the War Tunnel Museum in Sarajevo, Bosnia and Hercegovina.
CLOTHING/LAUNDRY
Big fat zero! We spent nothing on laundry because many of the guesthouses and "apartmans" had a washer. When there wasn't a washer, we had no choice but to hand wash in the sink because we rarely saw any laundromats in the Balkans.
MEDICAL EXPENSES
Fortunately, no major expenses here, except for $27 in over-the-counter meds to ease some nasty bug bites Akiko got on her foot that swelled up and got infected.
SOUVENIRS
$63 total for postcards and stamps! Postage was very reasonable, less than $1/postcard to send overseas.
PERSONAL CARE ITEMS
$22 total for haircut, shave, and the pesky public restroom cost...25 cents here, 50 cents there, etc.
WIFI/COMPUTER/ATM FEES
$42 total for more Skype credit ($10) and $32 for ATM bank surcharge fees, usually 1% of the withdrawn balance. Of note is that most ATMs in this region did NOT charge the extra fee for using their ATM. It doesn't matter to us because our bank reimburses us for that charge, regardless, but may be interesting to you.