A BIT OF BACKGROUND...
Topkapi Palace was first built under the order of Sultan Mehmet II, the Ottoman conqueror of the Byzantines. The palace, overlooking the Sea of Marmara, was the residence for many generations of Ottoman Sultans for 400 years since 1465. In the late 19th century, the Sultan's home relocated across the bridge to the more European Dolmabahce Palace on the Bosphorus Strait.
Here's a map of the palace.
ENTRANCE
To avoid the huge crowds, we arrived at the entrance right at 9 am when the complex opened. After purchasing tickets at 25 Turkish Lira (~USD$14) each, we made a direct beeline to the Harem because we knew this would get the most crowded. Below are the grounds of the First Court or Janissaries Court, and view of the Gate of Salutations which led us into the Second Court. Only the Sultan and his Queen Mother were allowed to pass through this gate on horseback.
THE HAREM
The harem was actually the living quarters and home to the Sultan himself, his mother (Queen Mother), wives, children, brothers, high ranking female officials who managed affairs of the household, hundreds of maidservants, concubines, and eunuchs.
There are over 400 rooms; approximately 20 of which we were able to walk through and get our imagination going on life in the harem.
After paying another 15 Turkish Lira (~USD$8) each, we were able to enter the harem.
We first came upon the Courtyard and Dormitory of the Eunuchs. Eunuchs were either white or black, usually slaves captured in war or recruited. These castrated servicemen were guards, messengers, and bureaucratic clerks to perform the business of the empire. The Chief Eunuch usually had the confidence of the Sultan and was sometimes considered only second to the Grand Vizier - the Sultan's right hand person.
Past the eunuch quarters was the actual entrance to the harem which was strictly forbidden to outsiders. This entrance led to the Court of the Concubines.
Concubines were young non-Muslim girls of breathtaking beauty, picked off from the slave market, and sent to the Sultan's harem as a gift from his governors. They came as young girls and were brought up under strict imperial discipline. After completing basic training, they were at the bottom of the harem hierarchy and called odalisque, serving as chambermaids to wives and concubines. An odalisque with concubine potential were given additional training in the arts. Some special odelisque were promoted to become a gedikli (servant-in-waiting). They were responsible for the Sultan's ultimate comfort and restfulness. Other odalisques became servants to the Queen Mother, wives, eunuchs, etc.
When the Sultan chose his partner for the night, he would give notice a day in advance so that she could prepare herself. To keep track of the beddings, the haznedar (treasurer) kept track of the date, place, and names of women to establish legitimacy and birth dates.
Next, we entered the Queen Mother's apartment. She was the mother of the Sultan, called Valide Sultan, and was the most powerful person in the harem. She would be as important as a queen in a European monarchy. She was responsible for running the harem.
The Courtyard of the Queen Mother was an important place because it was the only place where the members of the dynasty living in their separate quarters, met. Members of the dynasty, such as the Sultan's wives (kadins), princes, and brothers lived around this court, as well as the Sultan's bathhouse was located here.
The kadins were not officially married to the Sultan but were regarded as official wives. A Sultan could have up to 4 kadins, per the Qur'an, but unlimited concubines. Kadins were usually concubines at one time.
Beyond the courtyard was the Hall of the Fountain - an area where princes and consorts of the Sultan awaited him. Basically, an elaborately adorned waiting room!
Then, we walked into one of the most magnificent spaces - the Sultan's private apartment chambers.
The Apartments for the Crown Prince was also close by. The princes were trained in the discipline of the Ottoman Harem until they reached adulthood, at which point they were sent away to govern provinces and learned how to administrate in state affairs.
The Crown Prince's apartment overlooked the Courtyard of the Favorite (Ikbal). In case the Sultan developed a relationship with an odalisque or concubine, she would be titled Ikbal (favorite), the relationship declared in the harem, and given a private apartment, servants, eunuch, and carriage. A favorite or ikbal that bore a son became Haseki Sultan - a position second only to the Queen Mother, and of higher rank than even the kadins (wives).
The final part of the harem tour was the Golden Road. This was a short-cut passage used by the Sultan to get to the main parts of the harem as well as the pavilion in the Fourth Court. The name may have come from the Sultan throwing gold coins to be picked up by the concubines.
THIRD COURT
Upon exiting the harem, we were right by the Gate of Felicity, leading into the Third Court - very private part of the palace where hardly any visitors were allowed. Today, important and priceless artifacts are on display in the Third Court in various buildings.
We were unable to phograph any of these items. What you will find are ornate, priceless jewels and precious objects of the royalty displayed in the Imperial Treasury, as well as precious items gifted to the Sultan from other countries. The Dormitory of the Expeditionary Forces was actually a museum of royal clothing, many well-preserved for over 500 years. The most impressive collection was the religious artifacts in the Sacred Safekeeping Rooms. This building holds items belonging to the Prophet Muhammed, a lock of hair, and his footprint. Artifact from the Kaaba in Mecca and other religiously significant items make this place a revered place, even today. During the Empire's reign, this building was only opened once a year on the 15th day of Ramadan for the imperial family to pay homage. That's it.
A terrace located in the Imperial Treasury building provided a gorgeous panorama of the Sea of Marmara and Bosphorus Strait. If we were royalty, we would've hung out here on the terrace all the time.
FOURTH COURT
At the conclusion of our tour, we descended down to the Fourth Court, also known as the Tulip Gardens. Sultan Ahmet III was enamored by tulips, and is somewhat of a symbol of Istanbul. This court had another great view of the ocean.
Other notable finds was the Head Physician's Pavilion. The court's physician was usually always Jewish. The Iftariye Pavilion and Pool was beautiful, overlooking the Golden Horn and the Galata Tower. This pavilion connected to the harem.
One final room we visited was the Circumcision Room. Here it is.
That concludes our photo tour of the Topkapi Palace! We wished we had time to visit the massive imperial kitchen facilities that was equipped to serve thousands of meals a day, but we ran out of time.
Thanks for coming on this journey.
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References for harem information: