HIKE TO BELLAVISTAThe town of Baños de Agua Santa is in a valley, surrounded by vertical mountainous walls on most sides. There are trails from town where you can hike all around the southern slopes. We decided to attempt one of the trails from Maldonado Street up to the Bellavista lookout/summit with the promise of an excellent bird's eye view of Baños and maybe Volcano Tungurahua in the distance.
We weren't sure of the exact distance but we read that the hike should take approximately an hour, one way. We didn't know if this estimate was based on, say, the fitness level of some of my friends who would jump at the opportunity to run up this 'hill', or more like the fitness level of...us. Now, we aren't exactly couch potatoes; however, it's a whole 'nother thing trying to figure out if we could actually climb all the way to the top of this mountain in this altitude. We gave ourselves plenty of time and agreed that we would turn around at any time if one of us really wanted to bail.
The trailhead was easy to find, marked with a wooden arch.
Immediately, the ascent was steep and relentless. There were no switchbacks. Just a steady vertical climb. We went earlier in the morning so the air was still cool, but if the noon sun was beating down, most of the trail is shaded with foliage. Just when we were starting to huff and puff, we saw a rest stop where we could catch our breath.
After that, the pitch of the trail leveled out a little, but then it would become super steep again. We just took plenty of time and admired the view below and around us.
These stairs were brutal! Once past the stairs, we started to see a glimpse of Bellavista, which was very motivating. Also, a sign confirming that we only had 200 meters to go was helpful. (Another popular route is to break off and continue to the right for another 350-500 meters to Runtún on a more muddy and steep trail. Once in Runtún, you can reward yourself at the posh Luna Runtún Hotel and Spa.)
An hour later (they weren't lying!) we successfully reached Bellavista, and any pain or shortness of breath was immediately forgotten by the amazing view, although cloud coverage made it difficult for us to identify Volcano Tungurahua.
Leave it to Mike to find the one and only café up here called Grutah Helados de Paila. Thank goodness he did, because while we were sitting around enjoying our drinks, the wind started blowing harder, pushing the clouds away from the face of Volcano Tungurahua and allowing us a brief glimpse of it.
This volcano is one of the most active in South America - the last eruption being in April 2011. While we were at the cafe, we heard a loud bang like a gas explosion in the distance. Apparently, this is Tungurahua making its ever presence known, and this is a regular occurrence.
(Flowers seen on our hike)
(find the horse, grazing on the steep mountainside. There were 2 of them, no ropes)
Of course the hike downhill was a lot easier, but our thighs will probably feel it tomorrow. We got back into town just in time for a nice lunch at the popular Casa Hood - a sort of traveler's oasis from all the constant barrage of foreign stimuli. It has an electic international menu, also catering to vegans. A wall of rental books in English next to the fireplace makes this a cozy place to hangout, and they show an American film every night of the week. We were also very pleased to find that Casa Hood actually sells postcards, which has been more difficult to find than expected! Now, if we could just get over the sticker shock of the stamps at $3/postcard....We could literally buy three large 750-ml bottles of beer for the cost to send one postcard for goodness sake. Suddenly, we are faced with economic priorities that could hurt our postcard writing. :)LA PISCINA DE LA VIRGEN
Tonight, we headed to La Piscina de la Virgen - the hot spring baths. It was definitely not as crowded as it was over the weekend, but still a fair number of people for a Monday night. Remember to bring your bathing suit, towel, and soap...they say. To get in, pay $2/day or $3/night. Once inside, there are 2 levels. The first level has some changing rooms, a snackbar, and the scorchingly hot bath to the left. First, go up the stairs to the upper level, grab a crate to put your belongings in and change into your bathing suit in one of the changing rooms provided. Give your crate of belongings to the attendant at the window in exchange for a number. You can choose to keep your flip flops on, but it's not necessary. We recommend going barefoot and also leaving your towel behind in the crate as well. You must then shower with soap and rinse off before entering the pools. There are 3 more baths of varying temperatures and mineral content on the upper level. The view of Cascada de la Virgin Agua Santa Waterfall is incredible while soaking in the baths.
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