At the beginning of the day, we ignorantly knew of only one landmark, the bookstore. After walking through Retiro, we now recognize several distinct landmarks unique to BA. We're also starting to run into other districts and landmarks we've already visited, giving us a familiarity about a city that we love.
10 WORDS RETIRO
Grand > French Architecture > "Big Ben" > Mall > Irish Bar > Florida Avenue > Art-deco
THINGS TO DO
1. El Ateneo Grand Splendid bookstore (in Barrio Norte)
2. Pose for a picture by General San Martin's statue in Plaza San Martin
3. Watch the huge, baby blue Argentine flag wave in front of the Torre Monumental (was nicknamed "Big Ben")
4. Walk through the grand, European-style Retiro Train Station and note Coca-Cola advertising in literally half the station
5. Meander through the beautiful Galeria Pacifico mall, then
6. Window shop down the pedestrian mall on Calle Florida.
7. Walk across 20+ lanes of the widest street, possibly in the world, Avenida 9 de Julio.
8. Enjoy a drink at the cozy irish bar, Matias on San Martin.
HISTORY
"In its origins, this part of town was far from the city’s layout. By late 17th century, Governor of Buenos Aires Agustín de Robles built here a luxurious country house which he named El Retiro (The Retreat), thus setting a starting point for the urban gradual development of this neighborhood. In 1801, a bullfighting plaza with capacity of an audience of 10,000 people was built in the area. In 1819, however, this sort of entertainment was prohibited in the city, but throughout its life the plaza served as headquarters for the English invaders in 1807, and as stable for the horses of the Cavalry Grenadier Regiment created by General San Martín in 1812. Dubbed Campo de la Gloria (Field of Glory) after the defeat of the English, and Campo de Marte (Field of Mars) owing to the military exercises that took place on these lands, the district, witness of major events in the history of Buenos Aires, gradually gained significance. At the end of the 19th century, a yellow fever epidemic devastated the city, and high-society families that resided south of Plaza de Mayo began moving to this area in search of a healthier environment. At present, Retiro District is one of the most elegant neighborhoods in Buenos Aires. With its wide parks, stately residences, luxury hotels and tall office buildings, it comprises a mosaic where the city’s present and past merge." --Sitio oficial de turismo de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires, http://bue.gov.ar/
[Below: Mike in front of General San Martin's statue in Plaza San Martin.]
[Below: Circulo Militar (former palace of Jose Camilo Paz). Became headquarters for Argentine Army to house Military Circle (a social/sports club) and now a National Arms Museum.]
[Below: Formerly Palacio San Martin, residence for Alejandro Christophersen by Mercedes Castellanos de Anchorena until the 1930s. Now, the headquarters for Ministry of Foreign Affairs.]
[Below: Torres de los Ingleses (Tower of the English, also nicknamed "Big Ben") - a gift from the Brits in 1910, now Torre Monumental (The Monumental Tower), renamed after the Falkans War against the British in 1982. Argentina has asserted claim to the Falkland Islands since the 19th century. Argentine forces invaded and occupied the Falkans in 1982 for 74 days, but surrendered to the British navy and control of the islands was relinquished back to England. Soldiers on both sides of the conflict actually lost their lives. There is a memorial to the fallen in Plaza San Martin. Since then, their relationship with England is lukewarm and remains somewhat controversial. Most recently, a controversial Argentine advertisement for the 2012 Olympics has ruffled some UK feathers.]
[Below: Retiro Train Station.]
[Below: Edificio Kavanagh. An Irishwoman funded this 120 meter art deco apartment building, which was the tallest skyscraper in Latin America in 1935. Rumor has it that the vengeful heiress built the tower to block sunlight out of the nearby basilica attended by another family who scorned her daughter. Lol...Revenge, aristocratic style.]
[Below: Galeria Pacifico - a high-end mall, originally built in the 19th century for the Bon Marché department store. It truly is like being in France...]
[Below: pedestrian mall on Calle Florida.]
[Below: Matias Irish Bar on San Martin. Irish bars - one of the best exports in the world. Can find one in most corners of the world, and equally as comfortable anywhere they are found.]
[Below: Argentines claim Avenida 9 de Julio is the widest street in the world. It certainly is wide at 20+ lanes. It takes at least 2 loooong light changes to cross this sucker, and only if you hurry. The Avenue at night that goes around the Obelisk monument.]
[Below: finished our day at Siamo nel Forno near our apartment in Palermo Hollywood. Argentines love pizza, but not the kind we are used to. In fact, Pizza Hut tried to enter the BA market and failed. So, although there are plenty of pizzas to go around, none of it is very appealing, which is why Siamo nel Forno rocks the world with their thin-crust traditional neopolitan pizzas. We ventured from the traditional margherita pizza for the special of the day with fresh arugula and olives on top of the margarita pizza.]
That's all folks! In summary, Retiro is a small, walkable area with beautiful landmarks, shopping, great bars and restaurants, and a definite French feel to the neighborhood. Go check it out soon!